Celeriac and Parsnip Soup

I’ve spoken of my dislike of soup before. I will not bore you by continuing my complaint; I will simply sum it up and say that soup is an overrated dish, one which I take little pleasure from. It is fine as a starter, a preamble to a main course, […]

Watercress and pea soup with cheese and ham toasties

We all have dislikes. Bob Geldof doesn’t like Mondays, Cain disliked Abel, dogs don’t like cats and I don’t like soup. People get excited by soup. Too excited. It is nothing more than a drink. It is not a meal. I do not find it comforting. I do not consider […]

Pea, Potato and Lemon Broth

I like simple things and simple flavours. My favourite crisps are ready salted, or better yet unsalted; my favourite ice cream is vanilla. Boring perhaps but the natural beauty of ingredients will often speak for themselves. We needn’t fuss about too much; we will only ruin what is already good […]


St David’s day (1st March) is approaching and I am sure the patriotic Welsh are uprooting their leeks to wear with pride. Having grown up very close to, but not in, Wales I consider it my duty to advertise the delights of Wales to those who were not lucky enough […]

Celeriac, Mussel and Cider Broth

Mussels excel when served in a soup or broth as in the classic moules mariniere. But it doesn’t always have to be white wine. This recipe combines cider, for sweetness, and a mushroom stock for added depth. Add to that the slightly spicy, earthy flavour of the cumin and you […]

Brussels Sprout and Ham Hock Broth

Brussels sprouts seem to be enjoying a little surge in popularity of late, perhaps due in part to the classic combination of fried bacon and sprouts which now adorns most tables at Christmas. Brussels sprouts season stretches well into February and they can still be found in March so it […]

Mussel and White Bean Chowder

Possibly my favourite of all shellfish, mussels are underused on these shores. A shame because they are cheap, easy to prepare and quick to cook. They are also a sustainable seafood option which should make them even more enticing because if there is one thing we need to readdress it […]